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Seriously special -

The last time I visited The Talbot at Belbroughton was several years ago, and there have been a few changes in the meantime - it's under new ownership, for one thing, and the altered layout of the bar and restaurant provides a more conducive setting complementing the building's original features.

The menu claims to offer "simple home-cooked food!" made with organic, free-range and locally-sourced products where possible, and this promise seemed to be backed up by the choices available - there are several daily or weekly specials on the main menu, plus a variety of further choices inscribed on chalkboards dotted around the restaurant.

That evening the specials included cream of watercress soup, salmon and king prawns in coconut sauce, Mediterranean risotto and mushroom Provençal; these in addition to regular items such as moules marinière, pork Dijonnaise, chicken Madeira and various grilled steaks.

With so many tasty options it took us a while to make a decision (helped along by excellent pints of Jennings Cocker Hoop and Cumberland Ale, white wine by the glass and a Malibu and pineapple from the well-stocked bar, plus crunchy bread with balsamic dip), but we were all very happy with our eventual choices.

My grilled halloumi, a dish that can often taste rather rubbery, was wonderful; crisped golden on the outside and smooth within, and made seriously tasty by the mint and lemon dressing and soft bed of leaves. One of our group thoroughly enjoyed the chef's special fishcakes, which today contained a tasty combination of haddock, Gruyère cheese and spring onion, while the remaining two shared the freshly-baked tart of the week: a fantastic goat's cheese and caramelised red onion slice with sweet onion marmalade beside.

Three people picked main courses from the specials boards - one of these was cod loin Véronique, served in a white wine and grape sauce with sautéed potatoes and green veg, and this revival of a 70s classic was a great success. Coq au vin was another wise choice; a substantial and delicious casserole with plenty of shallots and bacon, served with glazed parsnip and creamy mash.

Across the table, the griddled lamb steaks in minted red wine sauce (served with green veg and Dauphinoise potatoes) were equally fabulous, the chargrilled flavour recalling barbecues and Mediterranean holidays. I was the only one who chose from the regular menu - and The Talbot's "famous chunky steak chilli" more than lived up to expectations. Made with cubes of meat rather than mince, plus plenty of sliced chillies, this spicy dish really did offer that rare home-cooked feel.

Instead of a standard dessert list, a selection of variable specials is offered, from which three of our group chose (I opted for a vodka and orange, plus the juicy strawberries from everyone else's plates!). High scores for the refreshing lemon sultana cheesecake and rich chocolate toffee crunch, but the cherry frangipane was the biggest hit with its fragrant almondy flavour.

This excellent meal was rounded off with coffee (and Italian coffee-choc bites instead of mints) before we departed, vowing to return in the near future. The food, the service and the surroundings could not be faulted, and with a bar menu and regular live music as well as the busy restaurant, The Talbot fully deserves to succeed.

The Talbot, Hartle Lane, Belbroughton. DY9 9TG.

Tel: 01562 730249

4:19pm Wednesday 9th April 2008

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